Showing posts with label mending. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mending. Show all posts

24 May, 2016

Make Do And Mend



Dear daughter made a flying visit home. Sunday  - after midnight until early wednesday morning.
Quick.

Too quick.

I haven't seen her since January when she met up with us in Hawaii.

She's working near Anchorage. At first, it was just a temporary gig but another job opportunity came her way in January and she needed a different wardrobe. I schlepped a duffle bag of office-worthy clothes to Hawaii and she took them from there.


 Its been five months and she is really enjoying her job but wanted to meet up with some friends and raid the closet where she left some of her things.

She also brought some mending for her dear mother to fix. You can feel the love from here.



 First up was this tank from Nicaragua. From the winter before last when she was traveling around central america. You can't just go out and buy another tank memento, so mending was the next best option.
Her hem gave out - the kind where you pull the thread and it all unravels.

I had the right color thread but it wasn't the right thickness to match. I could have hauled out my coverstitch machine ( the correct fix would have been to do this and buy new cones of thread to match). Which was not gonna happen. 


Instead, I made do and mended with what I had on hand.
Most t-shirt hems are done with the coverstitch - which is three threads; two on the outside in parallel lines with the third criss-crossing behind. It's a very stretchy and mostly secure way to finish hems in knits.

The bottom thread was still kinda attached, so I took my thinner thread and couched that stitching down. Couching is mostly invisible stitching that goes over a thicker thread at regular intervals so the thicker thread lies on the surface of the material securely.



 The top thread was mostly pulled out but not cut off!!!
So I threaded my needle with this thicker thread and did a running stitch along the line of stitching. The hardest part was not to pull the threads taut. You want this hem to remain stretchy somewhat.

It's not perfect, but it's mostly invisible to everyone else.







 Next up was this lovely little sweater she bought here in Portland. Different wool colors are sewed onto a base sweater in the shape of a flower.

Some of the stitching had come undone. 



 Again, I did not have a thick enough thread to match. Well - I might, but it would require digging for hours. So - I used an off-white upholstery thread doubled up to mimic the texture and it worked fairly well.

Upholstery thread is thicker than sewing thread. Less likely to break under stress. 

I  cast on a blanket stitch and secured the three areas which were coming undone.

Not perfect, but from a distance, it all looks great.

And really, that's what mending is all about. Securing whatever has come loose in a way that doesn't call attention to the fixed part.








 Next up was her black coat. Terrible to photograph.

Where her pocket sits in front, the 'side seam' had opened up. So, instead of putting your hand inside the pocket, your fingers would catch on this opening (making it bigger).

I hand-stitched this closed with two lines of stitching for security(stress point). The first row is behind the seam under my thumb, the second is visible, meeting up with the original stitching.





 These palazzo pants were next in the queue. She got them in Guatemala (I think). The cuffs are the mustard yellow. The cuff is attached at the bottom of the pant and then turned up to make a mock cuff.
The edge is a selvedge so was not turned under and sewn. A four inch area of the selvedge started fraying.  I did this mending in a darning style.

About  1/8" from the frayed edge, I made a neat row of running stitches. Then I used my needle to help turn under the frayed edge, hiding my running stitches and stitched it down to the under fabric. The running stitches give this section a little strength. If you look closely, you can see the four inches that are turned down but it would take an eagle eye to spot it as these legs are --w i d e--.

I also added a drop of fray check at each end to help stop any more fraying.




 Last was this pretty red-orange polka dot dress. The outer fabric is a sheer gorgette (?) over a thin satin. Gorgeous. Half of the hem fell down.
The bottom edge was serged to give hemming something to hang onto.

I was able to match the thread color but mine was too thick. I think a silk thread would have been more invisible but I didn't have any in this color. This was a fairly easy fix as well. Use a single strand of thread and use the serged edge to go through about 1/4 - 1/2" , then 'grab' a teeny bit of the overskirt in the red areas (not the white polka dots areas) and repeat. The trick is to get into a rhythm so the thread is evenly spaced and not pulling.


I don't mend often. There has to be a compelling reason for me to 'perform'. I was a little worried about the t shirt from Nicaragua but it worked in the end.

I learned to mend from my mother and Mrs. Necessity.

Here's a photo of dear daughter trying to 'steal' a Stetson Fedora I recently found at a community rummage sale for my dear son. We are torturing him as he's stuck in central Oregon this week. She's trading him the ball cap....hmmm...







31 March, 2013

Mending & Pattern Making

Apron repair.
Lost the hang of the blog thing and forgot to take the "major holes at midsection" photos otherwise known as embarrassing gapes in my work apron.




I resolved the big darning stitches by sewing a letter down over it all.
That's a ladybug stamp.

I was going to add some random thread addressing to help stabilize the layers but my new machine had a meltdown. It claims there is a big thread knot under the stitch plate which is invisible to me. Gah - probably broke the dang computer.
 

 I have to wait until tomorrow before I can call and ask for help. . . .
(And yes, I did try the ON/OFF button to try and re-set.)

________________________________________________

My junior clerk came back and worked Saturday, giving me an unexpected and very welcome WEEKEND!

Woohoo!
At 70+ degrees, I utilized my time Saturday weeding.
My goal for this weekend was not Easter as we celebrated my  mom's 80th last weekend thus taking care of familial duties.

Instead, I wanted to spend my whole two days with Yard Time, Clean The House Time and some Sewing Time.

I managed all three!. The house had not been cleaned in a month as my laundry days have been taken over by the other commitments that landed on my only free day of the week.
With junior clerk back for an undetermined time, I will be taking some time off from Work trying to downsize to about 35 hrs (50+ since September)



I love these shorts for work. They have a knit waistband that is comfortable on my auto-immune stomach.   Alas, my three pairs have worn out. Dang it.
Could I find anymore?

I decided at Christmas to make a pattern and it only took me three  months to do so.



These shorts have a lot of top-stitching details as well as RTW construction details.  I have never seen a commercial pattern with this many pocket details (3 different pockets). Nor the two panel front piece. Is this to save on material to maximize fabric usage  when bulk sewing?

You can see the flap pocket place on the lower side seam. Then there are cargo/patch pockets at the waist zone. This cargo pocket overlaps the seam on the front pieces. It appears to be just top-stitching but there is a rectangular side piece and a narrower 'crotch' piece.

From what I could see, I will be sewing these two pieces together to create one front piece and then adding the cargo pocket. Then I will switch to the back piece (all one big pattern piece) and add the back pocket, then stitch at the side seams to the front. Then I add the side seam flap pocket.

After this is together, I will repeat for the left side with the addition of a fake fly.
These pieces are then seamed at center thru the crotch and up the backside.


Finish with serging on a knit waistband and hemming.


All cut out on my swedish tracing paper.


I'm pretty rough with my seam allowance markings. I allow a big 1/4 inch for the serger and more for fold overs on this particular pocket.  These are not fitted shorts - so I don't need to be exact.
I add copious notes right on the pattern piece because I imagine it might be another three months before I can sew these. We'll see.



Side seam pocket needs a flap. When I was cutting this one out, I noticed I forgot to add seam allowances as this one will be turned but remembered in time before the scissors had their way.



This cargo pocket got snipped from the shorts. This is a great way to go if you are pattern-making and sewing within sight of each other but my sewing time has become negligent at best with Work intruding and I don't know how junior clerk coming back before her re-assignment and possible new boss will impact my hours.

Because of all the top-stitching, all of the seams were well-defined. I cut off the knit waistband as well as cutting the crotch seam apart leaving me a  left and a right 'leg'. Then I laid these flat pieces out on my tracing paper and rough sketched against those top-stitching lines. I wanted to keep the leg intact because of the extra pieces and when I do get back to the project, I will have the original short  mostly intact so I can remember how I thought I was going to construct these babies.




Then, there is the fake fly.


And all the top-stitching. With top-stitching thread that is thicker.


I hope all of you had a tremendously beautiful Easter and got to play with eggs and chocolate.
Happy Easter!

08 June, 2012

Good Sewing

 Yesterday afternoon,  I got to sew.
Yesterday's post details some frustration but I wanted to show you some good sewing.


 This cute little frame purse went together easily. I've made a few now.
Hardest part is picking out the fabric.

At a recent garage sale, I picked up this summer tablecloth is fantastic stripes.
The gal selling told me all about her summer tablecloth.
I never tell them what their precious tablecloth is gonna become. They get huffy.

The tablecloth had rust stains in the middle but I knew it had possibilities.

 Look at the fantastic fringe.


In other sewing news, I mended my hubby's swim trunks. These are old.
The cord got frayed and needed to be replaced.

He went out and bought a new pair.
Then he came crying to me because the legs were narrower and were chafing his legs.
{!!!???} chafing?


 All I had to do was remove the center back stitching holding the cord from being pulled through.
Then I attached the new cord to the old with a safety pin and wrapped some scotch tape around the join to make it go through smoother.

Except the tape came off inside the casing. I am so not going to tell him. It's still in there.
I then sewed the center back to hold the new cord in place.
(catching the tags in the seam, r-i-p, re-sew)

He's got a new cord to tie them tight and he's happy.

And he doesn't have to wear the new trunks that chafe.


I think he's just a typical guy who is uncomfortable in new clothes.
Lol